Frederic Savart Les Noues Ecueil Premier Cru Extra Brut 2021 750ml

Product Info

93pts Wine Advocate
Disgorged à la volée for tasting in February 2025, Savart's 2021 Écueil Les Noues originates from a cool growing season marked by a rather rainy June and July. The only single parcels deemed suitable for standalone cuvées were La Moufle and Les Noues, which, as Savart recalls, were largely spared from mildew pressure. Opening in the glass with a bouquet of orange rind, crisp pear, fresh red berry fruit and brioche, it is medium-bodied and bright, with a refreshing core of fruit, racy acidity and a long, chalky finish. Given the small harvest, Savart did not purchase his usual quantity of new barrels, resulting in this cuvée seeing minimal new wood—a stark contrast to previous iterations, which were aged in about 50% new oak.

In the world of grower Champagne, Frédéric Savart is one of the most visible and extroverted figures. His Champagnes, crafted from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in the villages of Écueil and Villers-aux-Noeuds, have rapidly become some of the most talked-about, largely owing to his limited-production, single-vineyard cuvées.

The first vintage that Frédéric, a third-generation grower, participated in was 1994, working alongside his father. However, it was in 2003 that he decided to leave behind a fledgling career as a professional footballer to return to the domaine and assume control of the estate. Almost immediately, he transformed the estate’s viticultural practices, adopting organic methods by eliminating the use of herbicides and synthetic fertilizers. He also introduced barrel aging, drawing inspiration from Burgundy wines and citing Domaine d'Auvenay as a key influence. The pivotal year for shaping the range we know today was 2012, when Savart began utilizing the press of his neighbor, Nicolas Maillart.

Today, Savart cultivates 4.5 hectares of vines and supplements his production with significant quantities of purchased fruit. His farming practices adhere to organic principles, with the exception of a treatment used to control mildew. “I like new wood and the reductive qualities that come from aging on solids,” Savart admits. His vins clairs undergo fermentation in barrels of varying sizes, predominantly between 350 and 600 liters, with a substantial percentage of new oak, primarily sourced from Cavin, Tremeaux and Atelier Centre France. He also experiments with aging some of his small cuvées in glass Wineglobes. Reserve wines are stored in tanks along with their fine lees. All wines spend 10 months sur lie, and all vintage cuvées are aged under cork rather than cap. Sulfites are used sparingly, only during pressing, and dosage is kept to a minimum.

Savart’s portfolio is constantly evolving, but the heart of his production lies in his single-vineyard bottlings, which typically reach their zenith with the Blanc de Blancs Le Mont des Chrétiens, Le Mont Benoit and Blanc de Noirs Les Noues. He also produces village-level cuvées from Écueil, such as Expression and Expression Rosé, along with several wines made from purchased fruit, including his interpretation of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (Haute Couture) and Les Mesneux (La Moufle). The latest addition to his range is Les Gillis, another lieu-dit expression from Écueil but aged entirely in new wood.

These Champagnes are incisive and intense, crafted with immense ambition. Yet, they are also dangerously drinkable, with a tendency to evolve rapidly, particularly Pinot Noir from high-maturity vintages. As a result, they are best approached on the young side. Published: May 08, 2025 Reviewed by: Kristaps Karklins

Terroir
“Les Noues” is drawn from a single lieu-dit in Écueil, a Premier Cru village on the western slope of the Montagne de Reims. Unlike the grand eastern-facing crus more commonly associated with Pinot Noir power, Écueil’s vineyards often face northwest, capturing cooler light and extended ripening conditions. This subtle climatic distinction contributes freshness, aromatic lift, and structural finesse.

The soils of Les Noues are a classic mix of chalk and clay over limestone, offering both drainage and water retention—an equilibrium essential in warmer vintages and equally vital in maintaining vine balance in cooler years like 2021. Pinot Noir thrives here, delivering fruit of precision rather than sheer weight. The 2021 vintage, marked by its tension and linearity, finds a natural ally in this terroir, amplifying mineral clarity and structural definition.

Savart’s intimate understanding of Écueil is central to the wine’s identity; this is not Champagne shaped by blending across villages, but by deep familiarity with a single slope and its nuanced expression.

Winemaking
Frédéric Savart works with meticulous care, emphasizing parcel-by-parcel vinification to preserve the individuality of each site. Les Noues is vinified with a combination of stainless steel and oak barrels, allowing texture to develop without overshadowing the wine’s inherent freshness. Fermentation is guided by indigenous yeasts, reinforcing the wine’s connection to place.

Malolactic fermentation is often permitted to soften acidity and integrate structure, though the balance remains taut and focused. Aging on the lees extends well beyond the minimum requirements, building depth and fine mousse. Bottled as Extra Brut, dosage is kept low, ensuring the chalky backbone and vineyard character remain uncompromised.

The result is a Champagne defined by precision, transparency, and restrained power—crafted with intention but free of excess.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2021 Les Noues shimmers with a pale golden hue and an exceptionally fine, persistent bead. The nose is lifted and nuanced, offering aromas of wild strawberry, red apple skin, and blood orange, intertwined with notes of crushed chalk, white flowers, and subtle spice. As it opens, delicate hints of almond and fresh brioche emerge.

On the palate, the wine is energetic and finely etched. Red fruit and citrus tones unfold over a tightly woven structure supported by vibrant acidity. The mousse is creamy yet precise, lending texture without weight. A pronounced mineral thread runs through the mid-palate, culminating in a long, saline finish marked by chalk, citrus peel, and faint savory nuance.

The impression is one of tension and clarity—Pinot Noir rendered with lift and articulation rather than opulence.

Food Pairings
Les Noues pairs beautifully with dishes that highlight both freshness and texture. It excels alongside tuna crudo, roasted quail, and mushroom-based preparations, where its red-fruited lift and mineral structure create balance. The wine’s tension also complements lightly spiced dishes and charcuterie.

For cheese, consider aged Comté, Parmesan, or semi-soft cow’s milk cheeses that mirror its subtle nuttiness. Serve chilled at approximately 46–50°F in a tulip-shaped glass to allow its aromatic layers to unfold.

Cellaring & Longevity
While compelling in its youth for its vibrancy and precision, the 2021 Les Noues possesses the structure to evolve gracefully. Over time, expect the emergence of dried red fruit, toasted hazelnut, and deeper savory notes, while the mineral core remains firm and focused.

Properly cellared, this Champagne should develop beautifully over 12–15 years, gaining complexity without losing its defining energy. It stands as a vivid expression of Écueil Premier Cru—thoughtful, terroir-driven, and unmistakably Savart.