Clos Saint-Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2023 750ml

Product Info

91-93pts Vinous Media
Opening with marked reduction, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape needs time to open up. Glossy red fruits emerge after a few minutes of aeration, paired with licorice, dried herbs and a nuance of violet. Full-bodied, round and juicy, the 2023 ends with good freshness on the juicy climax. Drinking Window 2026 - 2036 - By Nicolas Greinacher on August 2024

I met with Vincent Maurel and nephew, Valentin Maurel. After Vincent and his brother, Pascal Maurel, took over the 48-hectare family estate in 2002, their collaboration with the late consultant Philippe Cambie quickly elevated Clos Saint-Jean to the top tier of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. Since then, the house style has remained voluptuous and expressive—sometimes even flamboyant or eccentric. These wines are all about sexy fruit, marked intensity and richness. They are neither intellectual nor difficult to understand. Instead, they're accessible, transparent and, most importantly, easily likable. Clos Saint-Jean is one of the most consistent producers in the appellation, delivering outstanding results even in more challenging vintage conditions, like in 2008, 2014 or 2021. Though Clos Saint-Jean often cited as too powerful and concentrated for elegance-seeking palates, one must admire the quality Clos Saint-Jean has maintained since the Maurel brothers took over more than 20 years ago. The entry-level Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a reliable purchase and a great introduction to the Clos Saint-Jean style, usually blending 75% Grenache (raised entirely in concrete), 15% Syrah (aged in old oak barriques) and the remainder divided between Cinsaut, Muscardin and Vaccarèse (also raised in concrete) as well as Mourvèdre (raised in old oak barriques). While the unfinished 2023 vintage is shaping up well, I encourage readers to seek out the stunning 2022.

Next up is the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes, a wine produced exclusively for the U.S. market. The primary difference is that the Grenache in this cuvée comes from older vines planted in 1905. Both the entry-level Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the Vieilles Vignes are often of comparable quality (as in 2022), though occasionally, the Vieilles Vignes has a slight edge (as in 2021). What really brought Clos Saint-Jean fame are their three top cuvées: La Combe des Fous, Deus Ex Machina and Sanctus Sanctorum. It's important to highlight the key differences between these, especially regarding the use of new oak. La Combe des Fous blends 60% concrete-raised Grenache with 20% Cinsaut and Vaccarèse (aged in large foudres) and 20% Syrah raised in new oak barriques. Deus Ex Machina shares the same Grenache base, but replaces the other varieties with 40% Mourvèdre, also raised in new oak barriques. Finally, Sanctus Sanctorum is a varietal Grenache, aged entirely in new oak demi-muids. I often find La Combe des Fous to be rounder and more elegant, while Deus Ex Machina tends to be more muscular and richer. In certain vintages, like 2019, La Combe des Fous comes out on top, whereas in 2021, Deus Ex Machina leads the pack. In 2020 and 2022, both wines are of equal quality but with distinct stylistic differences, which can be traced back to their varietal composition. The hedonistic, velvety Sanctus Sanctorum plays in a league of its own, often earning the highest rank among the three cuvées. Although I prefer to enjoy these wines within the first ten years of their lives, to indulge in their voluptuous complexity, they can also age well. This is supremely evident in the delicious 2010 Deus Ex Machina, which has yet to reach its prime drinking window. In addition to the reds, readers should not overlook Clos Saint-Jean's delightful white Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Terroir
Clos Saint-Jean farms some of the most enviable parcels in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, particularly in the famed La Crau plateau—one of the appellation’s warmest, stoniest, and most distinctive terroirs. Vieilles Vignes is sourced from the estate’s oldest Grenache vines, many exceeding 80–100 years of age, rooted in profoundly draining soils composed of galets roulés (rounded quartzite stones), red clay, and ancient marine sediments. These rolled stones absorb heat during the day and radiate it back into the vines at night, contributing to Grenache’s trademark ripeness and depth.

The 2023 vintage in Châteauneuf-du-Pape was warm and dry but not excessively torrid, marked by sustained mistral winds that kept disease pressure low and concentrated the grapes’ flavors. Old vines handled the dryness with resilience, digging deep into clay and subsoils for moisture while producing small, thick-skinned berries with remarkable intensity. Diurnal shifts remained adequate despite the warm summer, preserving acidity and lift—crucial for a varietal like Grenache that can easily veer toward opulence in heat.

The resulting fruit from these venerable vines captures La Crau’s essence: sun-soaked ripeness, herbal garrigue aromatics, and a strong geological signature—iron, warm stone, and dust.

Winemaking & Technical Notes
Clos Saint-Jean is known for a traditional yet detail-driven approach that emphasizes the natural power of Grenache. For Vieilles Vignes, the wine is typically composed almost entirely of Grenache, with minuscule amounts of other permitted red varieties occasionally blended in depending on vintage character.

Key winemaking elements include:

• Hand harvesting of old-vine fruit, with a strict selection in the vineyard and at the cellar door
• Partial destemming, although some whole clusters may be retained in certain parcels to add aromatic lift and structure
• Fermentation in concrete vats, which preserve purity and prevent temperature spikes
• Aging primarily in concrete or neutral foudres, with minimal use of new oak to avoid masking the gnarled-vine Grenache expression
• Extended élevage to soften tannins and integrate the wine’s massive concentration

The estate’s philosophy revolves around showcasing Grenache in its purest, most expressive form—textural, aromatic, and powerful without technological polish or overt wood influence.

Tasting Notes
The 2023 Vieilles Vignes is deeply expressive from the first pour, offering a compelling mix of richness, intensity, and old-vine nuance. The nose delivers an expansive array of aromas: ripe black raspberry, kirsch, and macerated strawberry, layered with black plum, dried cranberry, and pomegranate reduction. Beneath the primary fruit lies a complex undercurrent of garrigue (thyme, rosemary, and lavender), licorice root, warm stones, and dried rose petal. There is also a savory edge—smoked herbs, sun-baked terracotta, and faint game—that adds gravitas.

On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, generous, and texturally plush, with the seamless density that only very old Grenache vines can produce. Flavors unfurl slowly across the mouth: ripe red and black berry compote, cherry liqueur, plum skin, and blood orange, interwoven with dark chocolate shavings, spice cake, anise, cracked pepper, and roasted fennel seed. The mineral character shows through as well—granite dust, iron, and the warm-stone signature of La Crau.

The tannins are silky yet powerful, framing the fruit without harshness. Acidity remains fresh enough to carry the wine’s considerable volume, keeping the finish lifted rather than heavy. The finish itself is extraordinarily long, echoing raspberry, Provençal herbs, incense, and crushed rock.

While absolutely gorgeous young, the 2023 Vieilles Vignes has the structure to age gracefully for 12–20 years, gaining notes of dried fig, leather, truffle, and sweet spice.

Food Pairing & Service
This is a commanding Châteauneuf-du-Pape—structured, generous, and aromatically complex—so it pairs best with dishes that can stand up to its intensity and complement its savory depth. Ideal pairings include:

• Herb-crusted lamb racks, grilled lamb chops, or slow-braised lamb shoulder
• Duck breast with cherry, plum, or orange-based reductions
• Beef short ribs, osso buco, or other long-braised red meats
• Game dishes—venison, wild boar, or rabbit with rosemary and garlic
• Mushroom-centric dishes, especially porcini risotto or truffle-infused preparations
• Aged cheeses like Comté, aged Gouda, or mature Manchego

Serve at 60–64°F (15–18°C) in a large, wide-bowled glass. A 1-hour decant helps reveal the wine’s full aromatic spectrum and soften its youthful concentration.